Crete is Pretty





This is a title Sarah and I chose, a bit tongue and cheek, because it seems so impossible to describe the beauty that’s surrounding us or the richness of our experiences. But boy did we have a doozey of an experience the other day.

The whole time we were on Crete, we were on the search for the best beach. We did plenty of asking around and agreed to make the hour and a half drive to Elafonisi. Oh. My. Gosh. I have never seen a place like this, and I’m certain that I won’t be able to accurately communicate its beauty through a blog. So just go there some day.

The drive to this beach ends in a winding dirt road that made me a little skeptical about where we would end up. Seems like someone would fancy up the road that leads to a supposed great beach, I thought. Then we crested a hill that overlooked the shore and oh my gosh. That moment truly stands out as one of the greats for me from our trip. Spread out before us was a beach unlike anything I’d ever seen. The water forms its way into several pools, all connected, but each so calm and still. And I’ve never seen so many shades of blue in one body of water. I’ve never been too picky about beach sand – give me a flat lava rock and I’m happy – but I can see why people are suckers for this soft powdery stuff.

So we settled our towels, and I had to just stand around for awhile to take it all in. This is the best way I can think of to explain just how wonderful this place is: Sarah and I took a walk in the water (which stays below hip level in the pools closest to shore and is still and refreshing) and talked about how people pay $500 a night to stay at places with beaches like this. We couldn’t get over that we had been allowed to just drive up and camp out for the day. And for the rest of the day, I kept thinking about how I live a middle class life, which I consider such a privilege, and this was a place so beautiful that only people who make more money than I’ll ever understand should be allowed in. And I’m so grateful that it’s just a public beach that anyone can see, and that it’s beautiful, not because some resort has manicured it, but because it seems relatively untouched since the day God created it. What an honor to laze in such a new kind of beauty for a day.

…an interesting tidbit – The day after our beach visit, Susan and I were talking to a jewelry maker in a shop right around the corner from our studio (who, incidentally, is one of the dreamiest hunks I’ve ever seen). I gushed to him about Elafonisi and asked him if he’d ever been there. He said he has, but there are other beaches far better. These beaches aren’t accessible by car. You have to walk an hour or two to reach them, but it’s totally worth it. It’s hard for me to imagine a beach more breathtaking than Elafonisi, but again, I was so deeply grateful that there is so much beauty tucked away, and that sometimes a journey is required that makes the experience all the richer.

To be completely honest – we visited this beach on a really windy day, winds that only picked up throughout the day, stirring up the previously calm waters. At one point, I took the hotdog back to the car to ensure its safety. When we had finished swimming and snorkeling, we laid on the beach forever. This is when about a pound of sand found its way into my hair. I’m still finding traces of it. And that night when I crawled into bed with my book, I opened it up, which spilled a layer of sand on my bed. BUT – no complaints. I’ve had days in my life that have been a real surprise – days that far surpass any expectations I’ve had. I hope you’ve had these days too…they’re such a gift and inspiration. And this day at Elafonisi – a very pretty place – fits right in that category.

Samaria Gorge, Crete





Greetings to Jessica and Sarah’s fan base. Allow me to introduce myself. I’m Susan, the quiet young lady who has been lurking at many of your functions (Jay and Wendy’s shower, Sarah and Jessica’s party, etc.) but who you may not have actually met. I’m the girl who found out about the trip and said, “Sounds fun, can I come… pretty please?” And luckily for me it would be super awkward to say no, so here I am in Greece!
I would like to write a little about a topic that has consumed my attention for a lot of the trip: my feet. Yes, that’s right. I had such a difficult time deciding how to pack shoes. How many should I bring? What colors? What type? I didn’t want to be uncomfortable. So I ended up with 6 pairs which equaled the number of Sarah’s and Jessica’s combined even though I’m spending less than half the time in Greece that they are. And wouldn’t you know it? Despite my best planning, after two days I was uncomfortable.
No matter what shoes I decided to wear, after any significant amount of walking, they started to rub somewhere. Cruelly, the only shoes that didn’t rub my apparently delicate, sensitive feet were my dressy black sandals with heels. I had band-aids all over my feet and started thinking I might need some type of bandage that fits over my entire foot to prevent friction. Then I realized they have such a thing…it’s actually called a sock.
The condition of my feet caused me quite a bit of anxiety as we began planning our hike at Samaria Gorge. This particular gorge is the longest in Europe, and the 11 mile hike through it is a must-do for any visitor to Crete who is physically able. Our tour book boasts that the Samaria Gorge is “the most spectacular landscape in Crete,” but it also describes the hike through it as “tortuous.” The trail is steep and rocky making it easy to lose your footing. It drops 3,280 feet within the first mile. At certain points, the trail squeezes between two towering rock walls that are only 10 feet apart.
I was a basket case as the day of the hike approached. How was I going to manage this with my feet in this condition? My tennis shoes were old and worn and lacked support (After a ridiculous amount of thought I had decided I didn’t want to bring a good pair). Plus, I’m a bit more of a hmmm…what shall I say… perhaps more nervous traveler than what Sarah and Jessica are. As I told them, I’m just not used to looking for things to climb in and on and up when I’m on vacation. And after all, as I reminded them several times, people have died in Samaria Gorge.
The day started by Sarah awakening Jessica and I and informing us that we had an issue with our alarm clock (lousy wrist watch) and that we didn’t wake up in time. We had to start the hike early so we could finish in time to catch the last ferry to Omalos, where we would then catch a bus to Chania where we were staying. At first I felt relief. I don’t have to do it. And then I realized that meant another day of nervous anticipation. After a little discussion and time math, we reached the conclusion that if we hurried we could still catch the 8:30 bus to the gorge and complete the hike in enough time.
We arrived at the bus station just in time, bought our tickets, and hopped on board. Before long the bus was climbing through the mountains on windy, narrow roads. I removed my shoes and began applying salve and bandages in preparation. And at last we had arrived.
I was about 45 minutes into the hike when I realized, hey I can do this. Sure, the thought that I might die never completely left my mind, but it was tucked very deeply in the back, so I almost didn’t know it was there. We did see many spectacular sights that day. Some other highlights included meeting a couple from Pittsburgh PA on the trail, getting in trouble by the national park staff for lingering in a dangerous area of the trail to pose for silly pictures, and Jessica giving me a tutorial so that I could use a “squatty potty” for the very first time. I even found myself taking on the role of encourager at times. For example, when Jessica insisted after we stopped to eat our peanut butter sandwiches for lunch that she find a comfortable rock to lay on for a nap, I advised her not to do it…too risky. It may be too difficult to get going again. (Just for the record, I’m still against the idea, but she swears it was helpful.)
Finally after several hours, we found our way out of the gorge and completed the hike. We stopped to buy freshly squeezed orange juice at a roadside stand. We were hot, tired, and dirty, but we also had a sense of pride and accomplishment. And I only had 3 new blisters which wasn’t too bad for an entire day of fun.

A Bit about Hania and a Hotdog





I woke up at 6:15 this morning, definitely not on purpose. My watch alarm that failed to go off yesterday when we needed to catch an early bus to the gorge decided to work on our sleep in day. Not a problem, I was able to go back to bed, and woke much later to a medley of Celine Dion hits and Bruce Springstein’s Born in the USA. Not really what I would expect to hear coming from our charming little side street in Hania. It’s been pretty much the only thing American I’ve come across lately (besides our car radio which plays both American and Greek techno jams). I am relieved. I’m really loving being immersed in another country, and not just Greece but with so many other countries and languages represented here, I feel like I’m getting a complete European experience.

We took our time getting ready for the day and then headed out to the town’s Thursday market. We walked the length of the street, taking in the variety of sights, sounds, and smells…buying from the sellers that looked nice and old :). We were not disappointed by our choices. Everyone we purchased from was so kind and seemingly sincere. We bought fresh vegetables and fruit, and even a Speedo for a friend. We have big plans to squeeze our own fresh orange juice, something that is sold often here in Greece. I already have a feeling where this endeavor might go……:)

We are now at one of our favorite cafés. It happens to be right at the end of our street Angeloy, a few short steps from our studio. Its location is perfect, giving us the quiet local atmosphere that we want, along with views of both a narrow side street and the harbor. The owner is a sweet older man with a friendly smile and a nice thick accent. He serves the best ham and cheese toast and of course ice cold frappes. Today I abandoned my frappe challenge (that sure didn’t take long) and opted for the cold chocolate drink, which is like chocolate milk, only 100 times better. I’m pretty sure the Greeks have some kind of magic dust they sprinkle on all their food to make it taste so delicious.

While at our café, we met a Scottish couple and chatted with them for quite a while. They were so interesting. During our conversation they recommended a great beach for us to try for the day. We got to the beach around 2:00. By Ohio laying out standards this would be quite appalling. I’ve always heard that prime sun time is between 11:00 and 2:00. Apparently in Europe they are either less vain, and don’t care too much about getting the perfect tan, or they are just way smarter and don’t feel like scorching out in the afternoon sun. The beach was the busiest at 5:00….crazy.

With any other “beach day” blog entry, I would probably mention the clean sand, the warm bath water, my saltwater swim, and the walk to get ice cream. You know, the basic stuff. All very nice, but nothing really that interesting or memorable. This beach trip included all of that, but with an added bonus…..Wait for it………We got rafts! What do you mean you’re disappointed?? Do you know how great a raft can be on a hot day at the beach?? It makes all the difference. It’s like adding jelly to your peanut butter, or chocolate syrup to your ice -cream. It’s awesome to have a raft at the beach. No more baking in the hot sand. Now all of the “bronzing” can be done in complete comfort, just lounging on hot pink inflatable plastic. Still not impressed huh? Well, what if I told you that along with the hot pink and neon green regular rafts, we also managed to shove an inflatable hotdog into the back seat of our car and take it to the beach as well??…Now I have your attention. If you were thinking hotdog, the kind you eat on a bun with ketchup, then you would be sorely mistaken. I’m talking about a big dog dressed in a hotdog suit. It doesn’t get much funnier than that my friends. Now for my older much more mature readers, you may want to stop reading now (or maybe you already have), and refer back to an early more respectable blog entry like our day at the Acropolis or Jessica’s entry about Delphi (I consider those to be our responsible days).

Ok, so about this hotdog. I really should let Jessica tell the story. After all it is her dog.

Susan, Sarah, and I have been trying out different beaches. Yesterday morning we sat next to the most lovely Scottish couple in our favorite café. They recommended a beach they had visited, so we made it our goal for the day. It’s just outside our town and we really did love it. On the drive there I pulled over at a shop clearly geared toward those headed to the beach. We had decided to buy some cheap rafts to take with us. The sea is so calm here, so you can’t really play in waves, but it’s great to float around in. I told Sarah and Susan that I would double check directions while they looked at rafts. This is where my day really started to fall apart. In retrospect, this is also a moment that shows me just how much power Sarah has over me. She and Susan each bought a humble raft for the low price of 2.50. This is just what we were looking for. Something that would last for the beach, but that we would feel ok about not toting around with us. I, on the other hand, made a terrible purchase. At Sarah’s sly prompting, I spent 8.50 on a very high quality and very giant inflatable hotdog. I loved it in the store, but at the beach I quickly realized that it is not a very useful hotdog. I was desperately trying to justify my purchase by showing its many uses to Susan and Sarah. On its second use, propping my feet up on it, I fell backwards into the water, at which point a sizely portion of salt lodged itself in the middle of my head. I mostly just drape my arms over it and float around. And the worst part is that its quality is far superior to that of the rafts, so I can’t just ditch it. I’ll need to take it with me all through Greece. So when we get to the very classy Santorini, you will be able to find me lounging in our swanky hotel pool atop my hotdog.


So we left the beach around 7:30 and didn’t return home until around 8:00 or so. Mostly because traffic in Hania becomes crazy in the evening, and also on account of the elves that like to come and rearrange the side streets when we are away, just to keep us guessing.

We had reservations at 9:30 for Tamam, a restaurant suggested by our Scottish friends. We walked down to the harbor area and had the best meal with a killer atmosphere and plenty of Greek food and wine. I ordered baby shark, partly because fish is suppose to be good for you, and it seemed like the thing to get when you’re on the sea, but mostly because it sounds kind of awesome :) Jessica had grape leaves and a Cretan salad and Susan had Moussaka. We ended the meal with free shots of what Jess refers to as Gummy Bear juice from our cute curly headed server and this coconut desert. It was the perfect end to wonderful day in Hania.

Some Topics I've Been Assigned




A lot of people, when commenting on our facebook pictures, have mentioned that it looks like we’re having so much fun. Yes, of course we are. But please know that we’re also doing some very responsible tourist things. We’ve already reported about our trip to the Acropolis. As if that’s not impressive enough, the very next day we went on a private tour to a museum, a monastery, and Delphi.
Sarah booked a tour for us with the famous taxi driver George. From what we could gather, he’s a very reputable tour guide who drives you around in his Mercedez and offers a wealth of historical information. We were pretty excited to meet George and see what all the fuss is about. Sarah walked down from our hotel to meet him and said, “You must be George.” And he replied, “No, I’m Tony.” So now we’re wondering just who this George is. Does Sarah’s greeting compare to walking into a Wendy’s and assuming that the girl behind the counter is Wendy herself? Oh well. Tony won us over pretty quickly, despite the time he spread out a map across the dash to show us where we were headed. Eyes on the road, Tony. His knowledge of Greek history seems endless. If we were in the car, he was talking. Well, I guess I can’t know for sure because I kept falling asleep in the backseat. I worked really hard at each site to learn a lot and show that I am really interested in this stuff. I just get tired sometimes.
Early on in our drive Tony mentioned Alexander the Great. Alexander the Great is one of those guys whose name is familiar, but my knowledge of him is actually very vague. I asked Tony what time period Alexander was from, and he decided to take us to a museum built near a battlefield from Alexander’s conquest. We saw a lot of old stuff there.
We all loved our next stop – the monastery. Over 300 monks used to live there, but now it is inhabited by only three. This is the kind of place you just want to get locked in at night so you can really explore….so many nooks and crannies and stone walls and steps. The cathedral was ornate, and the landscape was so naturally still…a beautiful combination.
Delphi was the main reason for our tour. At some point, you know in history, this spot was believed to be the center of the world. People would travel here to consult the oracle as a way of communicating with Apollo. It takes quite awhile to walk through this area, and it’s built into the side of a mountain, so it was a strenuous walk at times. Some highlights – Sarah told me to do a yoga pose on a rock podium, so I tried to, but then was asked to step off of the very ancient piece of history. Woops. Sarah and I did some dancing on an ancient stage…pretty crowd pleasing. And we visited the museum on site where the three of us got a case of the giggles. I could feel the curators eyeing us, so we had to leave before we lost all control.
The near purse snatching: It was our first night in Athens. On our ride from the airport, the cab driver showed us which street to look down to see the Parthenon. What a moment of – Oh my gosh we’re actually here. He also told us that it was a 15 minute walk from our hotel. After checking in, we decided to take the walk.
Something else you need to know to fully understand this story – Sarah is pretty accustomed to carrying a large purse that is really more of a satchel. It’s a great bag, but she bought a snappy new little thing for our trip. It’s a great size to slide just the essentials into, or you can slide the whole purse into a satchel and it seems more like a wallet. It’s a great purse for our trip.
So we had walked all of two blocks from our hotel’s front door and were waiting at a light. Also near this light was some punk kid. He eyed Sarah’s purse, ran over, and grabbed a hold of it. Poor little dear. He didn’t know who he was messing with. Sarah is quick and maybe part cat. She snatched her purse right back. But that punk kid broke the strap. A little disappointing, but not like it could have been, I guess. Welcome to Athens, girls.
For those of you who think I don’t live enough in the realities of the world, we did check around a bit to see if purse snatching is something we need to look out for. Does not seem to be a common thing as far as we can tell. Little fella, if you had asked me for some money, I might have given it to you.

When in Greece.....Eat ice cream for breakfast 7/13/10




I thought, given the fact that I have been labeled the picky one when it comes to food, that it would be fitting for me to write a little section on the Greek cuisine I’ve encountered so far, and my initial thoughts. Let me first tell you my blogging location- It’s a harbor side café…..not really a shocker to anyone who knows the general Hania scene. Hania is actually a larger city in Crete, but “old town” is something straight from a movie. It has a huge Venetian influence which is so evident in the narrow stone streets (perfect for exploring and picture taking), quaint side shops, and a sea side harbor with fishermen, boats, and of course an abundance of café’s with the most incredible views, soft chairs and couches…..you could hang out at one of these cafes probably for the whole day just people watching. There is such a laid back feel here. No one hurries, no one rushes, it’s like someone hit a slow motion button…I love it. In fact on my first run here, I felt a little awkward, moving faster then anyone….almost going against the Hania style. Even though the location is geared towards accommodating the tourist, I have never felt like I’m in a tourist location- mostly because everyone here whether on vacation or not, is from a different country. Don’t get the wrong impression. I would still say Hania is the real deal- authentically Greek- Not lacking in the Greek language, the gorgeous Greek people :) and yes, the Greek food…..how’s that for a segway ?

Here are some things we’ve noticed. First, we’ve learned that the Greeks aren’t really big breakfast people. Their biggest meal is lunch and they usually wait to have dinner- usually not until 9 or 10. We’re not really big on following that tradition exactly. We do the breakfast thing. I’ve had a strawberry crepe two times already…..oh so good. The best thing though is the fact that people here are ok with having deserty things for breakfast. For instance, Susan’s breakfast the first day was fruit…with ice cream, and the second day, a waffle with chocolate, Nutella, and ice cream. Both items straight off the menu. Wow, my kind of place! You should also know that I am currently drinking coffee….Yep, you heard me right…..It’s called a Frappe. It’s a cold drink and yes it really does taste like coffee. Do I like it? Honestly? No, of course I don’t like it, it’s coffee for crying out loud…I can’t stand coffee….However, I’m making it my food challenge for the trip to have one a day. I really think I can learn to like it. (special note- I also wanted to try flossing my teeth everyday here too….last night my travel floss ran out…..oh well, what can you do J) Stay tuned for forced frappe drinking updates :).

Usually we forget about lunch- very un -Greek. I think we’re just been so distracted by how great our days are, that we just don’t think about it. Dinner has been a little random lately. Mostly peanut butter sandwiches for me, eggs for Jessica, fruit for all- The fruit here is really tasty, especially the peaches in my opinion. We visited the grocery store last night to pick up a few things….that experience was a little interesting. I have to admit I was a kind of grouchy- it was late, and I was really hungry and tired, a bad combination. Any other time, I think I really would have loved looking at all the unique, unreadable packaging, and just enjoying being apart of a normal everyday Greek experience…but this time my focus was on finding pancake mix……they don’t have that. And FYI you’re suppose to weigh your fruit before you get to the checkout…that was a very time consuming mistake. Luckily for me this sweet Greek guy noticed me very confused staring at the scale. Without saying a word he came to my rescue and hit all the buttons for me.
We have had a lot of Greek food. Most of the time I make Jessica order it first, and then I just try hers…she’s a pretty good sharer.

I had a Greek salad the other day…..really good. There’s no lettuce in it, which I think is different than in the states, and the feta which I purposely avoided, is placed on top of the salad in really big blocks. Feta is something I’ve always said I don’t like, but have never really given a fair shot…..maybe I’ll give it a chance here in Greece. I ate something called souvlakia (really just chicken) and tried some of Susan’s Moussaka and Jessica’s Yogurt and honey thing, which I think is really crème cheese ….not sure if I will be ordering any of those things myself, but I am trying stuff, so that should count for something. They do have multi grain cheerios….score.

Oh, and I forgot to tell you, on our first day here- we were looking for our studio, a supposedly easy task that turned into a three hour combination of both driving and walking. We asked directions from a lot of locals (when I say a lot I mean like 10 or so) who either stared at us blankly or attempted to give us directions in Greek using a lot of expressive hand gestures. Our favorite helpful local happened to be this cute older man who owns a little bodega- which I thought was a lot like a small gas station that also sold local food. When giving directions he spoke English (rough English) and then whipped out some paper and wrote things down in Greek. The three of us exchanged looks and tried to hide our smiles…it was kind of hilarious. Another man jumped in on the direction giving fun and the two of them choreographed a little routine that went like this- “first you go straight, and then to the right and then your gonna take another right…straight, right, and then another right- complete with hand motions and thick accents. They did their little routine at least three times. It worked and we were able to find Iason Studios at last.

What does that have to do with food? Went off on a little tangent just to let you know that this charming Greek man and his Bodega has been a nice little food source for us. # one because he’s so nice, finding time to draw us maps (labeled in Greek) and give us his opinions on where to visit in Crete, and his views on the recent struggles of the country, and #2 because his stuff is so cheap. Nothing like food at a gas station in the states. Our first purchase was a total of 2,40E and that was for quite a lot of things. What a deal.

A final thought about the food and drink here in Greece. It seems customary to give alcohol as a welcoming gift. Our first rental car (which starts by using a card p.s.) was given to us complete with a bottle of white wine in the driver’s cup holder, and when we arrived at our studio, sitting on our table was a tray with fruit, nuts, chocolate, and this glass tea cup filled with an unknown drink that was so strong I think I may have permanently burned my esophagus….I like it :)…..Opah!

Some things you should know if you’re planning to travel through Greece (which you definitely should be planning by now…):




Some things you should know if you’re planning to travel through Greece (which you definitely should be planning by now…):

1) Sit in a café everyday and have a frappe. I spotted frappes at nearly every café we passed early on, and I’m a sucker for getting sucked into a new culture, so my interest was peaked. My travel book says a frappe is just instant coffee served cold, but I don’t believe that for a second. That does not sound like a good idea to me. And a frappe tastes more like the strong bitterness of coffee perfectly juxtaposed with sugar crystals, mixed with the tears an angel has shed for joy and maybe some nectar from an enchanted flower. I didn’t try one until my 4th day here and am significantly heartbroken that I missed 3 days of this love affair.
2) If you go to a beach that is at least somewhat secluded, you’ll probably see some naked. I haven’t seen anything offensive, nor do I anticipate this, but I’ve definitely seen plenty of naked.
3) In most places, flushing toilet paper is a no no. Be sure to check for a sign in the restroom, or WC. Also be sure to exercise caution when adding your used toilet paper to the mound that is building up in the trashcan near the toilet. Also be sure to send out some good thoughts for whoever it is that empties that trashcan.
4) Greeks tend to have perfect coloring and striking features. You’ll want to prepare yourself for your first case of the smittens. Say you’re driving down the street, looking for your first accommodation on an island, and you stop at a café to ask for directions. You’ll need to work very hard to listen to the directions when gazing back at you is the most perfectly beautiful creature you’ve ever seen. And I don’t typically go for tall, dark, and handsome. Hmmmm…maybe I could go back…maybe he’s a regular there…
5) Women – if you are over 50 (and Greek) – you can dress as if you are 20, and somehow get away with it. You might notice a woman about to cross the street and think to yourself – Wow, crazy cool outfit. Look at those heels. – And then she turns around and you think – Way older than my mom. - And even though this woman somehow looks fantastic, you’re really glad your mom doesn’t dress this way. And then you might miss your mom a little. Hi Mom!!
6) Driving – oh my. If you have been nervous about our well being, stop reading here. Drivers here tend to be…something that means a combination of assertive and efficient and terrifying, but not at all rude. Picture a street that is lined with parked cars on both sides. The cars are mostly small and European. Some are parked in the direction that traffic is flowing in that lane, and some are facing the opposite direction. This will give you regular, but very brief freakouts that you are driving the wrong way down a one-way street. If this is in fact the case, a very large truck might beep at you as the driver shouts Greek out his window. Peal off to the right the first chance you get, and when you realize that you’ve turned onto yet another one-way, going the wrong way, take off your straw cowboy hat at Sarah’s request just in case the Greeks are saying to each other, “Watch out for that crazy lady in the cowboy hat. She’s crazy.”

Are the streets here one lane or two?? Who really knows? Does it really matter? Always keep a lookout to the left because the driver behind you might wish to be driving faster than a tourist, in which case the road is definitely now two lanes as he passes you on the left. This is both assertive and efficient, and never seems rude. And sometimes seems terrifying. And if there is also a scooter on the road (and there will be, because we’ve seen about a billion), it might squeeze between you and guy passing on the left. Everyone seems to function well in this system, so stay sharp. Get a good navigator in the passenger seat and remember that this is not your time to sight see. Gawking at a beautiful beach or mountain backdrop might mean that you take out the father and baby in a stroller who dart out between parked cars to cross the street right in front of you. Don’t worry, nothing happened. I’m sharp.

Day 2- The Acropolis




Friday was a day of jetlag. Despite falling into a coma at 11:30 Thursday night, I woke up on Friday to Susan’s voice, “Do you guys realize it’s 12:30?” Ah well, what can ya do? We stopped at the front desk to check on using the subway (one of Susan’s favorite things to do is ask the front desk for help…she has suggested doing this most times that we need help, even if we’re driving around in our car) and found the stop without much trouble. The subway seems very similar to that in NYC, which was helpful. One difference is that it is incredibly clean. Overall, a good experience. We walked to the Acropolis. Because of the previous night’s research, we were mostly sure of what it is, but spending a day there cleared some things up. Before entering the Acropolis, we climbed Areopagus Hill, where the Apostle Paul is said to have shared his faith with Athenians. I experienced a moment when my faith suddenly seemed different – this was a very real reminder that my faith is based on true things and that Paul hung out with people who were not of the same faith but were on a journey that he could become involved in. The buildings located on the Acropolis are just amazing. It’s really something to climb a set of marble steps and then find yourself surrounded by such familiar images living where they’ve lived for thousands of years. Our grogginess was brushed aside by the beauty of the buildings, the backdrop of the mountains, and the ocean breeze that seems to be ever-present. As our guidebook says, this is a site that does not disappoint.

Our next traipsing around was at the Plaka. This is the historic district near the Acropolis. It was our first experience with the Greece I had been picturing – narrow stone streets, cafes spilling their tables out onto the streets, live music, hosts of flowers lazing their way down brick walls. We noticed right away that cafes are eager for the business of tourists. Every café we passed meant a greeting and an invitation to stop in. We chose a gold mine. We sat right out on the brick street, interacted with the Greek staff, ate traditional Greek dishes (souvlaki and moussaka) and listened to live Greek music mingled with American dance hits that were lingering over from the shop across the street. This was our first experience with dining out…it seems that you can sit and sit and no one attempts to speed you through your meal. Pretty different from dining out in the US. My only complaint is that I didn’t hear “Alejandro.” Oh well.

We took one last walk through the grounds below the Parthenon to see its pillars lit up against the night sky and caught our train back to the hotel. Our excessively late start to the day had been redeemed by such good touristing.